The truth about pizza

Alright, I am not going to claim that I am a pizza expert, for that could be a bit pompous. But I will try and tell you the truth about pizza – a truth that might surprise some.

First of all, whatever our personal belief on how and where pizza was invented is most likely wrong, since it is hard to define “pizza” and there are no accurate historical records regarding this admired chow. It can generally be agreed upon that pizza originated in the Mediterranean, with most people claiming the Italian peninsula as the birthplace. This is a fairly reasonable assertion, though some theories maintain that pizza is derived from the Greek plankuntos, the Jewish matzoth, or Phoenician flatbread. Some etymologists even claim that the Italian word pizza comes from the Latin pinsa, which means flatbread.

One fact is definitely known – that the main ingredients in what is one of the most quintessentially Italian dishes are not exactly Italian. The introduction of the Indian water buffalo allowed the manufacture of mozzarella cheese, a compulsory ingredient in any genuine pizzeria. Up until the discovery of the Americas, Italian cuisine lacked one ingredient which now is considered standard – the tomato. Even for centuries after, Italians believed our plump red friend to be poisonous, hence tomatoes were used solely as a decorative piece, until some meager Neapolitans started getting gastronomically adventurous, eventually putting tomatoes on their pizza.  Thus, pizza began to gain popularity with the street vendors of Naples in the early 19^th century, and in 1830, the “Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba” was established as the world’s first pizzeria.

Fifty-nine years later, in 1889, it is said that Raffaele Esposito became the “Father of Modern Pizza” when he created a patriotic pizza for Italy’s Queen Margherita. This pie was specially decorated with red tomato sauce, white mozzarella di buffala cheese, and green basil which not only represented the colors of Italy, but became a favorite of the Queen and all of Italy, making it what is now considered the “original” pizza. Now, it is affectionately named pizza margherita.

Now, you may ask, how did America receive pizza? The most accepted hypothesis states that Italian immigrants from Naples brought over their native fare to New York at the beginning of the 1900’s. In the next century, it would evolve into dozens of different varieties ranging from the Chicago deep-dish to the New Haven white pie with clams to the tropical Hawaiian pizza. America has embraced this interesting culture of pizza willingly, and now pizza has become a staple in the average American’s diet.

The variety in toppings on American pizzas is truly outstanding, spanning all food groups from anchovies to pineapple to even SPAM. But here in Italy I have definitely found the strangest of all – French fries. Usually the advice is “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”, but whenever you get offered French fries on your pizza, please say no. It is truly schifosa, as the Italians would say.

Che schifo! This is in no way as good as it looks. The French fries were soggy. DISCLAIMER: In no way am I saying that Italian pizza is not good - quite the contrary actually. Just this pizza was no good.

Also, whenever you go to an Italian pizzeria, you order one pizza person. The pizza is very thin and not extraordinarily large, so it is one per person. This is the usual way to get pizza in Italy, though it is possible to find pizza d’asporto (pizza to-go). Usually, these places sell either whole pizzas (American-style), or pizza al trancio which means pizza by the slice. Pizza al trancio can usually also be found at a bakery, but usually these are a thicker species pre-made that morning that have to be reheated (once again, do not do like the Romans do). 

I am lucky in that I can say that I have eaten pizza in notable places, especially New York City and Naples. Of course, these two experiences are among the best I’ve ever had exploring the realm of pizza, but the pizza I had in New Haven, Connecticut eclipses them all. If you ask me, Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria Napoletana  in New Haven’s Wooster Square is the best pizza in the world. If you would like to prove me wrong, I am more than happy to accept your invitation (including airfare and lodging) to wherever you claim is the best. 

Now this is what I'm talking about! The Original Tomato Pie from Frank Pepe's in New Haven.