The Time I went to Bologna for Lunch

Juicy bistecca alla fiorentina at the Trattoria del Gallo near Bologna.

Over a month ago, when my dad came to visit, we did something totally irrational and went to Bologna for the mere purpose of having lunch. We woke up that day in Ljubljana, drove across the Slovenian-Italian border to the towns of Gorizia and Udine, where we kind of drove around and got a general feel for the cities. At this point, we had already seen Venice, Trieste, Verona, Slovenia, and others so we felt like seeing something new. Plus, my father wanted to have a last good Italian meal before heading back to the United States the next day. I mentioned that Bologna is regarded as the culinary capital of Italy, and was not too far of a drive away (about two hours from where we were at that time). We decided that it could not be a bad experience, and he felt like he had seen quite a bit already, so it was not like he would feel guilty about spending time in the car.

As we started heading south, I told my dad, "About 10 kilometers before we arrive into downtown Bologna, lets get off the main highway and try to find a trattoria or an osteria that does not look too touristy." And we did just that.

When we sat down, the typical Italian waiter comes up to the table and asked us if we wanted to order or if he could recommend the meal for us. As any good connoisseur should do, we let the expert decide what we were going to be eating for lunch that afternoon. The only choice he gave us was bianco o rosso?, asking what kind of wine we wanted. We went with the red.

The waiter then meandered his way across the dining room, stopping to talk with a portly old man that was apparently a frequent visitor. He then emerged from the kitchen bringing us our wine, as well as some bread to start off with.

A few minutes later, after we had noticed a few certificates hanging on the wall that labeled this particular restaurant as a favorite for the Rome Police Department, the primo piatto arrived. It was a tri-pasta plate consisting of fusili alla bolognese (spiral pasta with meaty ragù), tagliatelle al pesto (strips of pasta with pesto sauce), and ravioli alla carbonara (cheese ravioli with an egg and pancetta sauce). Apart from being among the best plates of pasta I've ever eaten, the combination was something quite unexpected, proving the waiter's expertise. 


Once we had finished this plate (as if it were not enough food already), the waiter came out with a large plate of contorno (side dishes) containing mainly vegetables such as parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmesan) and many other scrumptious delicacies. This on its own could probably constitute a full meal at just about any other restaurant. 

This colorful plate of vegetables contained everything from zucchini and potatoes to eggplants and asparagus. 

Before we had even finished our veggies, the jovial waiter came out of the kitchen once again, this time with a large black cast-iron skillet which had an aroma that filled the room with pure bliss.


VEGETARIANS BEWARE: If you are opposed to the human consumption of other animals, the following material is explicit in nature and may be found offensive or repulsive. 


If the picture at the top of this article is not enough to make your mouth water, I have lost a good amount of respect for your gastronomical choices. This bistecca alla fiorentina  (Florentine steak) was so perfectly succulent and so flawlessly marinated in olive oil and rosemary that I have raised my standards to a point which only truly talented chefs are able to attain.


The meat was so good, that it did not matter anymore how satisfied our stomachs were from the amounts of food we had already consumed, we kept on savoring this delicacy until the black cast-iron skillet that was on our table had nothing in it other than a few puddles of simmering oil and a few scattered rosemary needles still scenting the air.


Once again, our happy waiter came by and asked how everything was (which everybody knew was just a formality, since nobody in their right mind or palate could ever say no in this superb establishment. We were tempted to say no, though, when he offered us dessert. But then again, what was there to lose? 


So we got our tiramisu, and boy, we needed somebody to pick us up thanks to how good it was.

Delicate mascarpone and flavorful cocoa made this tiramisu one of a kind. 

In the end, not only was the food perfect, but so was the service and the overall atmosphere. The waiter even gave us a free bottle of wine to take home after we had finished. As it turns out, our impromptu trip to Bologna was well worth it. 

Picture of the Week: Cheese at the Market

A nice selection of formaggio at Vicenza's Thursday market. 

Picture of the Week: First Day of Spring

This was the view from my house this afternoon, the first day of Spring. Today had the nicest weather since I've been in Italy so I decided to walk home from Vicenza (about a 1 hour, 40 minute hike up a hill).

Italian Unification

Vicenza's main piazza today. This picture was taken by my friend Maximilien Pierre Francesco Zanardi  from his house. 

Today, March 17, 2011 is a very important day in Italy. So important that we actually got the day off from school (which typically only happens for religious holidays). Today is the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. Back before 1861, Italy was divided into many different kingdoms, duchies, and other administrative regions. For example, the Papal States included Bologna and Rome, while The Grand Duchy of Tuscany held Florence, Pisa, and Livorno. In the south, there was the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies with the southern half of the mainland peninsula as well as the island of Sicily, while in the north there were many regional kingdoms.

Before this unification in 1861, few Italians actually knew what "Italy" was. As far as scholars of that time were concerned, "Italy" was just a peninsula that happened to contain many different kingdoms in it, sort of the way "Iberia" is the peninsula that holds Spain and Portugal. Exactly 150 years ago, the first single country with the name "Italy" appeared under a single throne, that of Victor Emmanuel II from the northwest region of Piedmont. The idea for a unified Italy was spearheaded by radicals such as Giuseppe Garibaldi as well as the more conservative Victor Emmanuel II and his fellow Piedmont dweller, Count Cavour, who is generally regarded as the architect of the Risorgimento, or Italian Unification. The main thought behind this unification process was uniting a group of people with a similar culture, language, religion, and tradition under a single throne.

Many of the problems faced in that time had to do with the majority of the Italian population identifying with their previous nationality. People would not proclaim "I am Italian", yet they would proudly say "I am Veneto" or "I am Sicilian". Nowadays, this sort of nationalism for one's region continues. If I were to ask someone on the street to label themselves, they would say "Sono vicentino" or "Sono napolitano" or "Sono fiorentino", identifying with their province. In America, for the most part, people would say "I am American". If you ask me, this is mainly because of how different the various provinces of Italy truly are. Each has its own dialect (with some such as Neapolitan or Friulian being full-on languages of their own), its own cuisine, its own festivals, and its own way of life. It is not like in America where somebody from Oregon and someone from Delaware have essentially the same culture. Here, if you go a hundred kilometers in any direction, you've found a completely new set of people.

Even in politics you can see the lack of national unity here in Italy. One of the leading political parties, La Lega Nord (the Northern League) has an agenda of seperating the economically strong northern regions of Italy from the southern regions. Although this is not unheard of in American politics, there is no way such a group would gain any power.

So even though this is the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, there still seems to be a sense that the unity of Italians is missing.

Picture of the Week: Teatro Olimpico

Vicenza's famous Teatro Olimpico designed by Andrea Palladio. This is the oldest surviving enclosed theater in Europe with construction starting in 1580. The most interesting part of the theater is the perspective in the background, which is actually sculpted as opposed to the typical painting. 

5 Best Travel Songs by Jimmy Buffett

Sometimes it takes some good music to get your travel juices going. If you ask me, the best musician for this particular occasion has got to be Jimmy Buffett. Here are my favorite five songs by him that really make me want to take off and travel.

Punta Mita near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

5. Cowboy in the Jungle

Overview:

This song talks about a cowboy who gets "stuck in Portobelo since his money all ran out" on his way to Paraguay. It is a great representation of a laid-back expatriate in South America who "rolled with the punches; played all of his hunches; made the best of whatever came his way". It also shows how people need to travel more in order to avoid "trying to cram lost years into five or six days".  

Favorite Line:

"And still twenty-four hours, maybe sixty good years, it's really not that long a stay." 

Listen: 

4. Son of a Son of a Sailor

Overview: 

In this Jimmy Buffett classic, he talks about going "out on the sea for adventure" thanks to his grandfather's hobbies. Gives you an overall grasp of what it would be like to sail around the world (which is everybody's hidden dream). Also, I am a son of a son of a sailor myself, so this resonates especially well with me. "I'm just glad I don't live in a trailer." 

Favorite Line:

"You can shake the hand of the mango man as he greets you at the border."

Listen:

3. One Particular Harbour

Overview:

This song has a bit of a South Pacific feel to it, especially since the beginning is sung in Tahitian. And Jimmy speaks the truth when he says that travel is "a  magic kind of medicine that no doctor could prescribe". This song makes me want to be a beach bum. 

Favorite Line:

"Where I can see the day when my hair's full gray and I finally disappear."

Listen:

2. He Went To Paris

Overview: 

The story in this song is about a man who goes to Paris because he is "looking for answers". He then drifts over to England where he marries and has a son. Then they both die and he moves to the islands where he's "writing his memoirs, losing his hearing, but he don't care what most people say". Probably my favorite melody in any song by Jimmy Buffett. 

Favorite Line:

"Some of it's magic, some of it's tragic, but I had a good life all the way."

Listen:

1. Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes

Overview:

This is the epitome of Jimmy Buffett's travel theme. To be able to "run into a chum with a bottle of rum and wind up drinking all night" is something that few people know they are able to do. The title and the chorus are a great indication of how travel, though great, requires a bit of laughter to express itself properly.

Favorite Line:

"Yesterday's over my shoulder, so I can't look back for too long. There's just too much to see waiting in front of me and I know that I just can't go wrong."

Listen:

What are your favorite travel songs (not necessarily by Jimmy Buffett)? Please feel free to discuss below.

100 days left in Italy

Over six months have passed since I arrived here in Italy. In some ways it feels like I have been here much longer, yet for certain things, I continue to be fascinated and surprised. If you count today, I have exactly one hundred days left as an exchange student, and I believe that I can truly say that it has been an extraordinary experience that I cannot compare to anything else.

As the sun hides away behind a rock and the grass, I start to realize that my time in Italy is more over than I thought.

As with anything you do for an extended period of time, being an exchange student has its highs and lows. Luckily for me, there have been more highs than lows, more joy than sorrow. I am thankful for such great people and places (and food) that I have come across so far this year. Now that we are in March, I think I am at a point where I can see the end of this year start to creep up on me, while before it always seemed to be far off in the distance. As my time dwindles down, I am trying even harder to see more, taste more, feel more, and experience more in general.

With 180 days behind my back, the hundred to come seem even smaller. And the closer I get to the end, the more I realize that I am not really sure if I want to arrive there. Of course, the closer I get to June, the nicer the weather will be – but this adds even more to the bittersweet feeling that I know is on its way.

“Tanto si deve scoprire all’esterno, tanto si deve progredire all’interno.”

~Giordano Bruno

One of the many things I have studied in Philosophy this year, that quote above reads, “As much as you need to discover on the outside, that much you need to progress on the inside.” What this means for me is that, although I have discovered and seen many things on the outside, I have also grown very much on the inside. And although I might not realize it immediately, when I look back at myself before coming to Italy less than a year ago, I realize how much I have evolved into a totally different person.

In some ways, it seems as if this whole year has been a sort of extended day dream in which I am inadvertently learning a new language, immersing myself in a new culture, and adding a few extra pounds. The worst part is that once I wake up this summer, not only will I still have those extra pounds, but I fear that I will have regrets for not having done as much this year as I could have. Of course, on a day to day basis, I do feel like I am discovering new things, but before I leave, there are some things I still feel I should do. Among these are: visit Rome and Florence (as well as other parts of Tuscany), expand my Italian vocabulary, and try to eliminate any traces of a Spanish accent in my spoken Italian. Of course, I still want to leave plenty of time to make new friends with not only Italians, but fellow exchange students.

On the bright side, I have a hundred days to do this. In a few hours I will be down to double digits. 

Picture of the Week: 'Moobs'

'Moobs' is the name of the gnome inhabitant of the Ljubljana apartment where I stayed a couple weeks ago. 

Bled and Cream Cake

Probably among the most famous Slovenian destinations, Bled is a small town in the mountains northwest of Ljubljana. Tourists will instantly fall in love with the charming lake which Bled surrounds, and most of all, the island that is home to a small church, which makes the lake seem almost magical. Among Slovenians, though, Bled is known for a different reason - cake.

The original Bled cream cake.

The Blejska Kremna Rezina, as this is called in its native tongue, is sold throughout Slovenia and can be found in just about any coffee shop in the small country. But the 'real' cake must be eaten not only in the town of Bled, but in the restaurant where we ate it (which I suppose was also the birthplace for this sweet pastry). 

 

The cake, which seems thick and heavy, was delightfully light and fluffy. This is very important considering the large portions that you can expect to be served. And contrary to what I expected, the cake was not overly sweetened, which made it quite enjoyable. 

A sign for the cake place.

Apart from the cake, Bled is a great little town. With about 5,000 inhabitants, it is a very small community, yet receives lots of tourist traffic in the summer. When I went, it was February and snowing, so I would not say that I saw it in its prime state, but it was great all the same. 

The Bled church on the island.

The church located on the small island, though not particularly significant as a church, is the location for many weddings and other events that benefit from a picturesque setting. This is definitely a place I would love to come back and visit in the summer.

Boats tied up for the winter.

Learning to Draw

I’ve never been good at art – at least not in the traditional sense of the word. Back in the United States, the only art classes I took were more “modern” mediums, such as photography and metalwork. Even then, I would not say that I was necessarily good at it. All I knew how to do was come up with a creative idea, like taking a black-and-white picture of a plate sitting on a doormat or making a miniature metal playground.

My workspace: I actually don't need the blade nor the triangle, but they make me feel professional. 

But now, in Italy, the home of over half of the world’s art and arguably the best place to learn it, I had to do an assignment. Usually this would not be a problem, but this was my first time ever reproducing a piece of art. It was not like in the United States where you can go off and explore your own realms of imagination and draw or paint that. Instead, here the only flexibility we had was choosing which piece we were going to reproduce.

Most of my classmates chose the masterpieces that I expected – Sandro Boticelli’s The Birth of Venus, a profile of Michelangelo’s David, and other works from artists like Leonardo Da Vinci, Rafael, Titian, and the like. I, on the other hand, did not want to do something by an artist who shares a name with a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle. Instead, I chose the odd, yet beautiful The Adoration of the Shepherds by the Spanish Renaissance artist El Greco.

The teacher did have to approve it before I could begin, though. That way, people would not choose a piece that was too easy. Apparently I chose one of the hardest pieces in the book - so hard that she made me do it only in black and white.

A few weeks and a couple of work hours later, this is what my final product looks like compared with the original black and white copy:

El Greco on the left. Alex Cuadrado on the right. 

The teacher was very impressed with me reproducing it so well, and said that “I really captured the luminosity of the baby Jesus.” Let’s see what grade she gives me on this nativity scene, though.

By the way, my favorite part was drawing the ox’s horn and the shepherd's arm (on the right).